Junko Koshino

Published in FASHION & DESIGN  
Junko Koshino Photo Courtesy of Junko Koshino, Inc.

Designs Inspired by Vessels

In Japan, a “vessel” is a metaphorical term referring to the sheer size of a building, or even the heart of a person. Throughout my career, I’ve often created designs inspired by a “vessel.” This picture was taken at the Kyoto National Museum on October 9, 2015 at a Noh performance on the opening night of a fashion exhibition celebrating the 400th anniversary of the Rinpa school of Japanese painting. The costumes I designed were based on the Nishijin brocade, a traditional textile of Kyoto, and they were inspired by the “vessel” of the museum venue.

Earlier in my career when I held fashion shows in China, Cuba and Vietnam, I wanted to show something new to my audience and create something inspired by that country’s traditions and history. I created a fusion of the essence of their heritage with futuristic components. The combination surprised audiences, who could relate to the design because of the changes they had experienced in their own lives.

The tight constrictions of the Kyoto location, which did not allow for any on-stage equipment such as lights or a sound system, ended up highlighting the simplicity of the Noh costumes that defy modern technologies. The combination of the Noh costumes and the opening timbre of a traditional flute with a taiko drum proved popular for the over 1,000 guests who came to the three showings.

Through crafting the costumes for the show, I discovered that a new “vessel” could inspire even more creations, and this realization was in fact the quintessence of the 400-year-old Rinpa school itself. From this show I learned that a new “vessel” could be a source of original creations. Altogether, the pre-event paved the way for the exhibition’s success and brought in over one million visitors.

日本では建物や人間の度量を「器・うつわ」と表現するときがある。この写真は10月9日(2015)京都国立博物館での琳派400年の記念展覧会開催を飾るファッションショウのオープニングの「能」である。無論この衣装は当地京都での伝統的工芸織物の西陣織をデザインしたものである。

この器(博物館など会場)がきっかけでモノを作り出すことも私の歴史の中では少なくない。中国、キューバ、ベトナムなどファッションショウ開催ではそこの方々に新しいものをお見せしようという気持ちと、そこの国からインスパイアされたクリエーションを作り出そうという気持ちがあったと思う。結果としてはその国の伝統的エッセンスと未来的なものを融合させたものが皆さんの驚きとなって受け入れられる。おそらく自国文化の進化や変化に興味と共感を持つのだろう。

この京都のミュージアムのショウでは、その器の制約がかえって効果を引き出す結果となった。ショウにはつきものの音響や照明、舞台の機材一切が持ち込み出来ないという環境。

そこに飛び込んだ「お能」とのコラボレーションは一気に現代的なものを否定した「素」の環境でのぞむことになり、来場者は三回で1000名を超えた。能の笛、太鼓から始まるデザイン能装束との組み合わせは、意表をついたに違いない。
この「意表」こそ400年前に産声をあげた「琳派」の真髄ではないかとファッションショウの衣装製作をとおして気づいた。新しい器は新しい創造の源になることをこのショウから学んだ。このプレイベントが功を奏したのか琳派展覧会来場者は10万人を超えた。

PS
2000年に行われたNYのメトロポリタン美術館でのファッションショウも今思えば懐かしい。

 

The complete article can be found in Issue #278 of the Tokyo Journal. Click here to order from Amazon.

Written By:

Junko Koshino

Junko Koshino is one of Japan’s most highly acclaimed fashion designers, best known for her wide array of designs. These include her Junko Koshino line, corporate and sports team uniform designs, and musi- cal performance costumes. She has also been involved in cultural exchanges through her fashion design activi- ties in the U.S., China, Vietnam, Cuba, Italy and France. Born in Osaka, Koshino won the prestigious So-en Award while studying in Bunka Fashion College’s design program. She was appointed by Japan’s Ministry of Land, Infrastructure and Transport as the 2008 Yokoso! Japan Ambassador (now ‘Visit Japan Ambassador’).



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